How To: Flat Felled Seam (Jean Seam)

Right now I am doing these quick "How To" posts because I am uncomfortable sitting at my sewing table for extended periods of time. I will start back on more clothing projects after I have my baby and things settle down a little bit. But, I really do like posting so I thought I would post some of the things that I learned in school.

Today's "How To" is the Flat Felled Seam. It is also known as the Jeans or Levis seam. This seam is very simple and gives a nice finished look to anything that you make out of denim.

First I just cut two squares of denim. About the same size.

Right side = dark. Wrong side = light.

Step Number Two: Sew WRONG sides together with a single stitch so that the seam allowance is facing out with the right side of the denim. Pressing the material after every step is not totally needed, but recommended. It helps get cleaner lines and makes it a bit easier to work with. I finger pressed these and thats why they don't lay as flat and as neat as they probably should.

Step Three: Trim one side down to almost the original straight seam. When I choose which side I am trimming, I trim what would be the "back". So in this case I trimmed as if the right side piece was the back of my pants/skirt.

Step Four: Lay the uncut side of the seam over the side that you cut. Iron flat. Then you are going to take and fold under the edge of the seam to make the finished edge. I chose about 1/4" to turn under. You can choose whatever you want depending on how wide you want the stitches to be apart for your particular project. Once you have turned the edge under, iron it again to flatten the edge to make it nice and crisp. Again, mine doesn't look as neat because I just finger pressed it down.

And finally, Step Five: Stitch the second seam. Just run a straight stitch close to the folded under edge of the material. This makes the double stitch finish that everyone recognizes on jeans, and it tacks down the open side.

I like this seam finish because it is very clean looking. It is also very simple. If you need any clarification or have any questions, please feel free to send me a message!